“Acorex Wine": in the search of the Moldovan style
Presently there are two trends in the world wine-making – production of wines in international style and in traditional style. The supporters of the first believe that it is benefic for the consumer who will know for sure how the wine of a certain type should be like. The supporters of the second opinion believe that it is unacceptable to loose the traditions of the local wine-making and with that – the identity of wine. Howerver, the western market requires young wines with intense fruit fragrance and oak flavor, with soft taste, that are dominating the quality wines. These wines hold an 80% market share. This fashion was introduced by the major dealers of the world – Australians, because their wines can be only of this kind due to their climate.
In its very first production season “Acorex Wine Holding” company tested the modern technologies on the Moldavian grapes in order to find out if there is any perspective of our wine on the external markets. Italian experts were hired for this work. The results exceeded expectations: the wines proved to be competitive. “The intention was to be able to compeete the rest of the world” – says the Production Director Mr. Vladimir Lazariuc. – “We visited all large exhibitions – Bordeaux, Verona, Dusseldorf, London, and studied the market. Then we worked for three years on developing a Moldovan wine in an international style. Due to climate conditions the south of Moldova reminds the northern part of Bordeaux, that’s why our wines are similar rather to the French ones then the wines of the New World. And if the majority of the Australian wines don’t resist the ageing and can be served only as young wines, then our wines are better if aged. In our wines the oak is balanced and just accentuates the special wine sort peculiarities”.
In their attempts to obtain the features of Australian wines our technologists met a range of contradictions. In order to obtain an intensive red color they were extracting colorants, and together with them the powerful tannins that initially are quite aggressive. In order to make the taste softer with a velvet nuance it is necessary to polymerize the tannins in the process of ageing. If these substances are not used then the wine loses its color. That’s why it was decided to produce dry red wines with at least one year of ageing. In this way “Acorex Wine” made its first step in its search for the style of a Moldovan wine. They came to the same conclusion with the white wines, where it is highly appreciated the freshness of the fragrance, with fruit flavor and the soft taste. The difficulty in this case was that the white wines are oxidizing faster. The technology of organic production of wines helped solving this dilemma, during which the wine is protected against contacting with oxygen, in order to avoid the appearance of aged flavor and to preserve the freshness specific to young wines. Besides, there was used in a new way the well-known technological method of apple-milk fermentation. As a result the wine-makers found the balance between the fresh fragrance of the young wine and the softness of the aged wine, with its characteristic tannin of vanilla and spices.
The transition from the international style wine to the wine produced with the application of the sophisticated advanced technologies in compliance with the Moldavian traditions, became for the company a quest of a national style. One of the wines resulted from this quest is “Amaro de la Valea Perjei”. This wine enters the group of wines that express the high skills of our wine-makers. Experts call them icons.
“Amaro” (“bitter”) – this is analogue of the famous “Amarone”, the so-called answer of Moldovan wine-makers to the wines produced in Italy. The name of “Amarone” appeared in 1936 in the distilleries of Villa Mosconni. It enters the category of wines controlled according to its provenience. In its consistence are included local red grape varieties – Corvina (up to 70%), Rondinella, and Molinara. These are produced from grapes dried on the vine, but other ways of drying are used as well. According to the old tradition the grapes are lightly dried for about 90-120 days in a ventilated room on bamboo reed. The production technology of this wine implies a fermentation of the must on fiber without the separation of the ridge (dried with the bunch, these are preventing the development of the mustiness and are conferring the wine tannin, which is good for the fermentation process) 15-20 days at a low temperature. “Amarone”, in comparison with the majority of Italian wines is characteristic by its viability due to the powerful tannin structure. The minimum term of ageing is of two years; the optimal term of ageing is of 4-5 years. The experts say that even after twenty years its organoleptic features are kept and sometimes they even improve. This wine has an intensive color of red pomegranate, with a saturated taste, with chocolate flavor, its oily, fresh and dry. In the expressive race is dominated by sweetened chestnuts and cherries. The minimum concentration of alcohol is 14%, the minimal extractive potential – 22 g/cubic decimeter.
At the basis of “Amaro” (70%) is Bastarda Magaraci (with large berries and soft tannin), Merlot – 20% and Cabernet – 10%. Besides, homogeneously ripe grapes are a must, that’s why the viticulturists have to form a zone of fruiting on vineyards. “The drying technology is quite complicated, and it was tested on smaller volumes”, – says Vladimir Lazariuc.
A good Moldovan wine is quite difficult to make without an oak barrel , that is why the barrel has to be a real one – made of a 100 year old wood in accordance with a special technology. Basically this is a membrane filter. The capacity of the barrel is 225 liters. This is the best volume for the optimal dosage of oxygen, which contributes to the polymerization of tannins. These ones are also protecting the fragrance from oxidation. “Amaro” is bottled after six months of ageing. It has to ripen in the bottles for at least two years, but the best term for the complete achievement of harmony is 10 years.
The first edition will count 22 thousands of bottles. The importers willing to buy this wine formed already a line. Although “Amaro” didn’t get its full strength yet the guests of our company already taste it. It is really special, different from traditional Moldovan wines: it has a strong taste, full and at the same time soft, velar, very harmonious, with a complex fragrance of fruits with the presence of vanilla. Its color – saturated ruby-pomegranate. Despite the high concentration of alcohol (15,5%), it is hardly felt due to the remaining sugar (9,9 g/cubic decimeter), which brings harmony to taste. According to the Moldovan classification “Amaro” is a demi-dry wine, but “Amarone” in Italy is considered to be a dry wine.
Last year, on the invitation of our Italian technologist Umberto Menini, the president of the Italian Association of the “Amarone” Producers and his colleagues visited the company. They gave the highest appreciation to “Amaro de la Valea Perjei”.